Introducing our new silk tallow base with my personal favorite Sherlock fragrance.
While we still stand behind our OG base 100% and do not currently have plans to discontinue it, it has been five years since it was released and it was time to create a more modern shaving soap formula.
We tested ingredient after ingredient racking up fifty-six test batches before we settled on this one. The main secret is a massive amount of silk hydrolysate which is a very conditioning, natural, film-forming agent which is used in a lot of anti-aging creams (anti-aging statement not evaluated by the FDA, Yaya, yadda, etc).
Some of my testers reported feeling a skin tightening sensation - be aware that this is the film left by the silk hydrolysate.
For best results, load soaking wet brush for 40 seconds in the tub, then build lather on wet face for an additional minute.
INCI Ingredients: Glycerin, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Castorate, Silk Hydrolysate, Potassium Tallowate, Lanolin, Aloe barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Fragrance, White Kaolin Clay, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Castorate, Sodium Lactate, Allantoin, Potassium Kokumate, Sodium tallowate, Sucrose, Ulmus Fulva Bark Extract, Sodium kokumate
Plain English Ingredients: Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Castor Oil, Beef Tallow, Silk Hydrolysate, Potassium Hydroxide (lye), Lanolin, Aloe Vera Juice, Water, Fragrance, White Kaolin Clay, Sodium Lactate, Kukom Butter, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide (lye), Sugar, Slippery Elm Bark Extract
(orders in the two ingredients lists are slightly different due to the requirement of INCI ingredients to show whether an oil has been saponified with sodium or potassium hydroxide)
Our Sherlock scent is inspired by the character brought to life in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in his classic series – The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes – written in the late 1800’s. It is a warm tobacco based scent blended with toasted caramel, black pepper, moist dirt, and finished with a touch of leather, moss, mandarin, honey and rose.
4oz of tallow based soap in a plastic tub (4" diameter and 2" tall).
The tub is oversized (designed for 6oz can hold 8oz if filled to the brim) to allow for easy loading of your shaving brush while making less mess.
One of the things that makes me a repeat customer of Chiseled Face is that I can take a pea-sized amount of their soap, smear it inside my scuttle, and within seconds of whisking with my brush, have enough lather for a multi-pass shave. I cannot do that with this new formula. It takes about 4 times as much product and I have to stir for almost a minute before I get anywhere near the amount of lather I'm used to. The problems don't end there. No matter what I do the lather dissipates not long after making contact with my skin. So this soap falls down on the two jobs a shaving cream is supposed to provide: prep the whiskers for shaving and protect your skin. I inevitably end up with more cuts using the new formula then I ever have with the original. So why am I still awarding it with two stars? It still features that fantastic Sherlock scent. And it is still better for your skin than anything that comes in a can. But if this represents the future of Chiseled Face, I will have to find my shaving soap elsewhere.
I personally use the OG formula more too - as I've stated in the descriptions I have no intentions on discontinuing the OG formula. However I had a lot of requests for a slimier, denser, thinner base with more skincare. OG is about 90% soap with 10% skincare, this is about 50% skincare and 50% soap - this does mean that you need to load longer - I suggest 40 seconds of vigorous loading vs 15-20 with the OG.
Different strokes for different folks. The original base is a lot easier to use, but this formula was tailor made as an answer to the 'hobby grade' soaps - for those that want more skin care at the expense of a much finickier base. It should not dissipate though if it gets enough water - check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPMB4H6unDk if you want to see how I use it.
Thanks for taking the time to review!
You can apply this review to Ghost Town Barber as well. I purchased them in the new Silk formula and had to sell them after one use. Why? Because they both burned my skin. Without being a chemist, I can only speculate that the Slippery Elm Extract is the culprit. I own the Midnight Stag in the original formulation and find it to be outstanding in every way. Belongs to my top-tier soaps. Which is why I wanted to try the new formulation. I couldn't be more disappointed.
Now, I haven't given up on this company, so I did a reorder of the Sherlock and the Ghost Town Barber in the original formulation.
It really begs the question: "Why mess with a good thing?" Think of all the great soaps that reformulated and are now awful. You seasoned wet-shavers know exactly to which companies I am referring.
Primo's recommendation: You should definitely purchase from this company, just stick with the old formula.